The day we arrived in Florida, a stranger asked me where we were cycling from and to. Having had this question probably hundreds of times now, I blurted out my rehearsed line, “Started in Portland, Oregon heading to Florida.” Augustine chimes in, “we are in Florida, dad.” Right, right.

Total trip mileage to-date is around 4,662 Miles (7502 KM) – the route page has been updated to show our plodding along. We’ve made it some 440 miles from our long stay / delay in New Orleans KOA. Since our last update, we all got Covid (after avoiding it for 2 years), seen some epic beaches, met some genuinely wonderful folks, and managed to only get flipped off by one motorcyclist on a bridge outside of Pensacola.

I am currently sitting in a Florida State park just outside Tallahassee where it is 77 degrees at 73% humidity. Ance and Augustine are on their way back to Juneau as I type. Ophelia is stuck with her boring dad until their return in some 10 days.

We are currently 240 miles from St. Augustine, Florida and the Atlantic Coast – I am starting to get antsy. First, to hit our goal. Secondly, to take a little bit of a break from life on the bike touring road. Ance, it seems, could go on forever. Me, I need my homely comforts from time-to-time. We wish everyone well, with a full cup of beer and smiling stomachs.

– Latvian Alaskan Family

March 12th – 28th – New Orleans KOA

0 miles. Our already long stay at the New Orleans KOA was further extended after Ance’s return from Alaska. It turned out, we all got Covid. Throughout our duration at the KOA (pre and post Covid), we watched too many movies, the girls occupied the playground like pirates, Augustine made copious amount of pancakes, and I generally just sat around like a bump on a log. The girls made fast friends throughout our staycation, the primaries being Ellie and Payne. They hung out for hours and hours coming up with games to play in the small playground. While Ance was away, we also made some campground friends – one of which, Dennis, took us to our first Air Show of the Blue Angels. 

After recovering from Covid, we made a day of exploring New Orleans proper. We’ll have to come back sometime to really dig into the city. 

March 29th – New Orleans KOA to Chalmette

28 miles. Said our goodbyes to our Campground buddy Mark (and our 3+ week KOA home) and off we set on the levee trail to the Audubon Park near downtown New Orleans where we stopped for lunch. Plunged into the chaos of the city down Saint Charles street. It is lined with stately homes and freshly blooming flowers of pinks and whites. Just a mile or so from the bustling French quarter is a swath of destitution and poverty, where it seems the whole world has sung a forgotten tune.

Made it just outside Chalmette to the Marina Inn and Suites. The pool was actually open, the girls lost their little marbles and played in the small aqua paradise until the light was wrung from the sky.

March 30th – Chalmette

0 miles. Loaded up with every intention to depart. However, Matthew, who works at the hotel, expressed some concern of crossing the nearby bridge and emphasized the severe weather advisory for the area. After re-checking the weather ourselves (tornado watch, severe thunderstorms, etc.) we opted not to torture ourselves and just stay put for another night. 

The girls continued to romp in the pool and we mainly lounged about as the wind picked up. Took a walk to the end of the marina road – feeling the hot humid wind blustering about. When the evening set in, we sat on the dock and watch the whole sky get electrocuted. The rain began to come down around 8 PM. The girls ran around in down pouring sheets until they got yelled at by the hotel desk clerk.

March 31st – Chalmette, LA to Pearlington, MS (Sunrise RV Campground)

34 miles. Woke early to pack up – Matthew is meeting us at 8:30 AM to give us a lift over the treacherous bridge. Loaded up his flat bed trailer and took off for a freeloader 4 mile ride. Hopped back onto the bikes and began trucking on past a NASA facility and the nicest smelling industrial factory – Folgers Coffee.

Then began a series of bridge crossings and narrow strips of land. Suburban looking houses and mobile homes wearing stilts like awkward flamingos rose from the grass and swamp. Stopped at the Island Marina for lunch. Girls were treated with a free otter pop from the owners. Kept on, keeping on, and rolled into the Sunrise RV Campground around 4 PM. Jeff, one of the owners, came out with his brilliantly orange and white colored cockatoo to show off some tricks.

We’ve entered Mississippi. Augustine caught her first gecko. 

April 1st – Pearlington to Buccaneer State Park (Waveland)

13 miles. Short day. Met a cyclists from Alaska – used to live in Haines and also just down the street from us in Juneau. Works for the Ferry system. Small world.

After setting up camp, we packed up a beach bag and lounged around on the sand for the duration of the afternoon.

April 2nd – Waveland to Ocean Springs

45 miles. Big day. Beach towns and beach paths and sand everywhere. Bridges continue. No real places to camp (that aren’t too close or full) so we opted to stay with Brad and Lydia – warmshower hosts. The day went fairly well, headwind only really noticeable during the latter half of the day.

Arrived at Brad’s house around 7 PM. Made some dinner, drank some local beer, and the girls watched Turning Red with Lydia (our daughters have already seen the movie about 6 times). I conked out so hard it felt as if my eyeballs were pulled to the bottom of the Gulf of Mexico.

April 3rd – Ocean Springs, MS to Bayou la Batre, AL

35 miles. Huge awesome breakfast with our hosts – bacon, eggs, and toast…oh, my. Setoff for an easy 17 miles into Orange Grove for lunch. Covered area. Old man with a stars and bars ball cap, dressed in camo, “Famous around these parts, it used to be a lot better around here until they let in all the immigrants,” Okay. No use getting into an argument with a camouflaged curmudgeon set in his ways.

Just after entering Alabama we trucked onto the Guest House Inn and Suites near Bayou la Batre – apparently some parts of Forrest Gump where set around here. Mellow late afternoon and then off to bed on one of those mattress things.

April 4th – Bayou la Batre to Dauphin Island

20 miles. Rolled out of town by 11 AM after a pit stop resupply. Hot and muggy early. After the last two longer days (and maybe some hangover of Covid) my butt and leg muscles are sore something special. The 20 miles were over by 2 PM and we set to work on a long afternoon lounging on the beach. I went without my shirt for a toll and totally burnt the crap out of my chest.

April 5th – Dauphin Island

0 miles. Tornado watch day and ferry off the island to Fort Morgan is not running – so change of plans. We loafed around, went for a jog and watched the wind and rain on the island for a day.

April 6th – Dauphin Island to Gulf Shores State Park

32 miles (4 on a ferry). The weather mellowed through the lull of night. A gray low laying blanket is moseying through the sky. Hit the road a little after 10 AM to be sure to catch the ferry to Fort Morgan at 11 AM.

30 min ferry ride. Thus far, we’ve utilized bicycles, airplanes, cars, busses, trams, horse drawn carriages, and now ferries on this trip. Pounded out an easy 24 miles to the Gulf Shores State park. Quickly swapped into swim gear and headed over to the pool and splash park. Stayed until light was drained from the sky.

April 7th – Gulf Shores State Park

0 miles. Change of plans, so we ended up with an additional vacation beach day. After school work we took unloaded bicycles to the nearby beach. While Ance is pretty familiar with destination beaches with sugar like sand, I am not. The whole beach, for a swath of a couple of miles is littered with human tanning and burning flesh. Multicolored shade tents wobble unsteadily in the blustery breeze. Childrens’ elated screams whip through the air.

We joined. The girls got beat up in the waves while Ance and I collected blowing sand in our ears.

April 8th – Gulf Shores, AL to Pensacola, FL

28 miles. Gentle start on bike path out of the park. Crossed into Florida without much fanfare – though this is the state that we’ve told countless people we are heading to over the past 8+ months. Stopped at Perdido playground, very much like castle park in Juneau, kids loved it.

After dropping our things at the cheapest hotel we could find, Patrice (our friend/host from Lousiana) met up with us. She took us to crash a stranger’s birthday party. I may have had a margarita too many and attempted to teach the daughters valuable life skills, like scaling a vertical i-beam post. 

April 9th – Pensacola to Wynnehaven Beach (Hideaway Retreat).

34 miles. Rode through Pensacola beach and easterly to Opal beach for lunch. The water is an epically blue churning cauldron of desire crashing onto a blaring white ribbon of sand. Pounded out the last miles to the Hideaway Retreat in the trees. Girls made a fast friend in Mable.

April 10th – Hideaway Retreat to Topsail Hill Preserve

34 miles. Detached children from new friend and began a beach road ride to Destin board walk for lunch. The insane amount of people and resorty vibe makes me slightly sick to my stomach. Margaritaville, a restaurant chain created by Jimmy Buffet, for lunch. Not bad, but not great either.

After departing insanity, arrived at awesome Topsail campground. Unloaded bicycles and went to the beach for some splashing for the girls and a sunset gazing for Ance and me.

April 11th – Topsail to Panama City Beach (Camper’s Inn)

34 miles. Left the tranquil Topsail for another ride through beach retreats and preposterously posh looking towns. The anxiety inducing atmosphere forced us to lunch in a gas station parking lot – like the true rockstars we are. 

Pounded out to PCB to the Camper’s Inn where they are incessantly blaring Bob FM by the Pool. Girls swam while we played cards. Night in a cabin.

April 12th – Camper’s Inn to Pitt Springs

34 miles. Leaf blower wake up call at 6 AM. Two hours of a two stroke to move 3 pounds of sand. Bob FM began blaring around the same time. It challenged my strongly held humanitarian beliefs. Brutal morning though Panama City and construction zones. After 2+ hours we made it 11 miles with 25 miles left to our goal for the day – and it is 1 PM. Fantastic. 

Google nav led us astray a couple of miles. Made it to Pitt Springs for a quick dip. It is a natural spring with this beautifully clear blue water. Set out for the final few mile push. Hit a bewildering sandy road which blocked our way. Pulled off onto a random side road, beat. At least there are no leaf blowers or Bob FMs here.

April 13th – Pitt Springs to Blountstown

31 miles. Rolling hills. Natural spring dip/bath in the morning. A woman came and played her ukulele and sang while we ate breakfast by the springs. Pretty sweet. Rolled onto Clarksville for lunch where we pulled out the camp chairs just outside the Dollar General, like classy people. 

Made it to Blountstown where David (warmshowers host) picked us up at the local Pizza Hut and brought us to his cabin in the woods. David has a patch of land and a trailer he picked up for free and uses it principally to host cyclist coming through the area. A wonderful Navy man and a great shelter in the peaceful woods.

April 14th – Blountstown to Hall Landing (Lake Talquin)

32 miles. Woke to pack up early. David pulled up with his red pickup truck around 7:15 AM. We loaded up with him and road to his house where our bikes were stored. He pointed us to a breakfast buffet at the local supermarket where you can buy your breakfast by the pound. Sign us up. Said our goodbyes and thank yous to David, ate breakfast, and then set off on the road.

Hall landing is a “primitive” campground with no electricity, so most RV’rs don’t camp here. It is nestled in the trees on the shores of the lake. The silhouettes of the trees in the setting sun is a wonder of beauty and a spectacle to behold.

April 15th – Hall Landing to Coe Landing

9 miles. Short day. Ance and Augustine need to fly back to Juneau, Alaska due to some pending 5th grade assessment tests that Augustine has to take. Ophelia and I are staying back to haunt the Coe Landing area (just outside Tallahassee) for 10 days or so. Got to the park early and setup for a longish stay.